“Felt Like I’ll Never Come Up”- US Legend Kelly Slater Reveals His Most Horrifying Experience While Surfing
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Kelly Slater, crowned World Surf League champion a record 11 times, is perhaps the greatest professional surfer of all time. He stars in Apple TV+’s upcoming docuseries, Make or Break, releasing tomorrow. In a first look clip shared by Apple TV+, Slater talks about his first experience of braving the waves at the Pipeline.
Born in Florida, Slater grew up near the water and began surfing at the early age of five. As a kid, Slater had found the Pipeline to be an intimidating challenge.
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What makes the Pipeline so dangerous?
Slater tells the crew, “Pipeline was so mythical to me as a kid. There was a poster on my friend’s wall, and I remember looking at that wave… and just thinking I don’t know how guys can turn around and catch that wave. That’s so scary.”
The Banzai Pipeline is a surf reef break located in Hawaii, Oahu’s North Shore. It is known for gigantic waves that break in shallow water just above a sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow, thick curls of water. Slater discusses the dangers of surfing at this spot.
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“To be able to paddle those waves and ride them is super dangerous. Someone dislocated their shoulder this morning,” he explains. “I’ve had friends basically get scalped and get run over. We’ve had a lot of people die at Pipeline, a friend of ours died out here about 10 to 12 years ago.”
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Kelly Slater and his relationship with the Pipeline
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Now, the Pipeline, or the Pipe as it is commonly known, is one of Slater’s favorite surfing spots. He has won multiple competitions held at the Pipe. Most recently, he came out ahead at the Billabong Pro Pipeline 2022 back in February. However, his first experience at the Pipe was nothing short of a nightmare.
“I remember this wave picked me up and slammed me on my back on the reef with my board,” he recalls. “For a second I just felt like I’ll never come up, it’s just going to hold me here forever. That’s what surfing is,” Slater explains. “That fear and danger that comes along with it, that’s all so enticing.”
Make or Break is a seven-part high-stakes documentary series. It follows “the world’s best surfers as they battle for the World Title,” according to Apple TV+’s website.
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WATCH THIS STORY: 50-Year-Old Surfing Legend Returns Back to the Water a Few Weeks After Facing Major Setback Post Oscars 2022
Edited by:
Melroy Fernandes