While Shane Dorian may be a jack of all, he is also a master of one. He has expertise in riding the small as well as the big waves. However, no one can ride the big waves the way he does. Shane Dorian is the best big-wave surfer in the world. After quitting competitive surfing in 2003, he shifted his entire attention to big-wave surfing. It is no secret that big waves are extremely risky and dangerous. So how does the 50-year-old surfer manages to do it with such ease?

Shane appeared on the #1749 episode of the Joe Rogan Experience in December 2021. Here he let Joe in on his little secret behind becoming the best in what he did.

How did Shane Dorian become the big wave surfing ace?

Practice and dedication. Shane heard the sayings, “Practice makes a man perfect” and “Try and try until you succeed,” and decided to live by them. Recalling his training days, Shane said, “It was my life for a while and at the time I was training like a madman like super physically fit, working out six days a week, super high like crazy intense. I was working with like breath coaches to do like breath work and stuff, so as soon as I would paddle into the lineup when I was surfing big waves, I was breathing to where I was oxygenating my lungs.”

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He then added, “And so you basically try to get as much air into your lungs as possible when you know you are about to eat sh*t or go under a really huge wave. Then it’s just a matter of holding your breath.”

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Rogan was shocked after hearing firsthand from the big surfer about how risky the big waves can be. Following his explanation, the duo played a clip of the surfer, which shocked Rogan more than the explanation itself. “Jesus Christ, that’s scary,” said Joe Rogan after watching the clip.

A move that made a mark

Further into the podcast, Dorian recalled one of his major wipeouts. During the mayhap half of Dorian’s 10.5ft, the surfer board was immersed in the waters while Dorian was completely underwater. He further added that during the wipeout he had held onto a 15ft long leash connected to the end of the board. At the time, he was submerged in the water for an entire minute and eight seconds.

The time might not look that long on the land, but when you are underwater, this time passes painstakingly slowly. However, lucky for Dorian, all his breath training paid off that day. Because of it, he was able to survive this near-death experience. Unbeknownst to Dorian at that time, the incident later led to a life-saving discovery for the surfing world.

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In 2011, Shane Dorian developed an inflatable wetsuit known as the Billabong V1 wetsuit. The wetsuit increases the survival rate of the surfer in case of wipeouts.