“Sacred Place in Nature”: 11x WSL Champ Gushes Over an Iconic Surfing Move
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Surfing is often described as one of the most exhilarating and beautiful experiences a person can have. And there are few surfers who can capture the true essence of the sport better than Kelly Slater. One of the most iconic and memorable moments of Slater’s illustrious career came when he rode an incredible barrel wave at the Pipeline event. However, the legend gave words to the magical feeling of getting under the ocean current.
A barrel is a type of wave that forms a cylindrical tube as it breaks and surfers attempt to ride inside the tube, which is often referred to as the “barrel,” or “tube”. After his win, Slater described the incredible experience of what it feels like to surf through the barrel.
Kelly Slater describes the beautiful feeling of being in the barrel
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Surfing through the barrel is widely regarded as one of the most challenging and rewarding experiences in the sport. However, the 11x WSL champion has ridden some of the most impressive and awe-inspiring waves ever caught on film. Sometime back, Slater achieved the unbelievable feat of winning his 8th pipeline event. His historical feat involved a magical moment for both fans and Slater as he came out of an intense barrel.
In the second season of the ‘Make Or Break’ surfing series, Slater described the sensation of surfing through the barrel. “When you get a barrel it feels like something so natural. It’s like this sacred place in nature and it all makes sense.”, he said. Slater compared it to being in a dreamlike state where everything falls into place. “It’s what you were meant to do in life,” he added.
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He also described it as a peaceful place where the surfer is fully immersed in the present moment and everything else falls away. Ultimately, the feeling of surfing through the barrel is difficult to put into words. It’s a combination of physical sensation, mental focus, and spiritual connection that creates a sense of awe and wonder. While Slater described the waves of the pipeline as a breathtaking experience, some consider that place as the graveyard for surfers.
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Barrels possess some life-threatening dangers
The popular beach of Oahu is the go-to place for any surfer, due to its gigantic waves that can go up to 20m high. However, not many surfers are aware of the dangers possessed by the powerful waves. Former professional surfer Rosy Hodge recently opened up about the life-threatening struggles that surfers face while riding the waves. “It really is a wave that you can die at”, Hodge told in the same episode.
While the former professional surfer highlighted the dangerous hindrances, Slater didn’t seem to care about them at all. He made it look like a cakewalk with his extraordinary skills. For Kelly Slater and other surfers, riding through the barrel is the ultimate expression of what it means to be a surfer.
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WATCH THIS STORY: 51-Year-Old Legend Kelly Slater Gets Candid About the Toughest Moments in His Surfing Career
Edited by:
Debmallya Chakraborty