Surfing is one of the most thrilling adventure sports. Just a little miscalculation can land a surfer in life-threatening situations. It is very important to pay attention to weather updates before gliding across the water waves. Above all, one should reconsider before dwelling in the sea alone. Ignoring these simple guidelines might push one to a face-off with death. Something similar happened to Dr. Bob Dickson.

The chairperson of the Communication Department of The Master’s University once gave a detailed account of his horrific surfing experience. Going out on an empty beach with no lifeguards nearly cost the veteran professor his life one summer. The story was first published in the winter edition of the University’s magazine.

Dr. Bob Dickson opens up about his near-death experience

Reflecting on the summer of 2022 when Dickson “almost drowned,” the professor realized as soon as he had taken the first step in the ocean, something ominous was “bound to happen.” Even though he is a strong swimmer, he was still a novice surfer. Further, his lack of experience “blinded” him to the sign that would’ve otherwise served as a warning to experienced surfers. The zeal to get in shape over the summer did not let his plans falter even when noticing the strong currents. Unbeknown to what might lay ahead, Dickson lauded his dedication as he marched towards the beach that morning.

Talking about his plan to The Master’s University magazine, Dickson wrote, “My plan was to stay on the other side and catch whatever scraps I could. I didn’t expect to do much riding. My goal was to start slow — work my way back into shape by paddling around by myself.” Catching a wave or two would’ve just been a bonus.

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His unexperienced self misjudged the cushion to be enough to paddle through the current. As Dickson tried to clear the crash zone, the waves pushed him back to the beach, closer to the rocks. But Dickson ignored the signs of nature until it was too late.

The scary realization

It was only when he took a break to catch his breath that he came face to face with a jetty did Bob Dickson realize the gravity of his situation. He was caught “between a strong current and a wall of rock.” While the professor was trying to find a way out, another strong wave slammed him into the rock, back-first.

Although he was wedged ribs-deep in the rock, there weren’t any serious injuries yet. As Dickson was trying to wriggle out, another large wave started curling around him. This wave launched him out of the spot, suspended between the water and rocks. As the wave went down, it spit Dickson out onto the rocks with force. “I didn’t know where the next impact would land — my head, my face, my spine. I believed I was about to die,” he added.

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Laying there on the cold rock not yet far away from danger, Dickson tried to calm down his hyperventilating self. It was in these moments he had an epiphany and found his calm in the chaos. Ultimately, by pushing himself to safety, Dickson could get out of the dangerous situation. The encounter made the professor realize that he is never in control of his life. It could slip away at any moment. He learned to never overlook the warnings of nature.