In the world of big-wave surfing, Kai Lenny stands as an icon. From Nazare to Jaws Surf Break and the iconic Waimea Bay, Lenny has mastered mountainous 60-foot waves that could be compared to skyscrapers in New York City. However, surviving such a mammoth wave isn’t just about skill; it’s about a mindset. In a recent revelation, Kai Lenny shared this mindset, especially for those moments when things could go haywire, especially during wipeouts.

Kai Lenny opens up on his wave mastery

In an exclusive interview with People, 2020 Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge winner Kai Lenny shared that he had been surfing since he was practically a kid and chasing and riding waves since he was five. Lenny revealed, “Riding big waves doesn’t happen overnight.” He shared that it was a journey that took a ton of time and dedication. However, he also revealed that when you’re out there having a blast, you don’t even realize how fast you’re improving. Kai also addressed the risks involved when facing gigantic 60-foot waves and shared his tricks for scary situations like wipeouts.

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He said,  “The real trick to surviving these wipeouts without getting injured is to be completely relaxed.” Lenny revealed that he’s learned over the years that panicking just makes things worse. Ending his interview about his deep love for the ocean, the 31-year-old surfing virtuoso expressed, “It’s chasing that first wave feeling, right?” As we reflect on these words from the legend, they serve as an important reminder of the paramount importance of safety in extreme sports. Recently, Lenny narrowly escaped a severe injury, underscoring the critical role of awareness and precaution in his craft.

A safety precaution that saved his life

On January 6, 2024, Kai Lenny took to Instagram to share a two-carousel image post that shook his fans. The first image depicted Lenny lying in a hospital bed clutching a cracked helmet, while the second image provided a close-up of the helmet’s damage after a significant accident. Lenny’s caption read, “First time wearing a helmet at Pipeline, and it may have saved my life.” In his post, Kai mentioned that he did not remember much about what happened, except that it happened during his heat at the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout.

Read more: Olympic Surfer Kanoa Igarashi Opens Up Feeling Like an ‘Outsider’ Amidst Cultural Shifts

Fortunately, lifeguards swiftly came to his aid, tending to his injuries. And this scary accident left him with a concussion and some bleeding from his ear. However, he assured fans that he would soon bounce back after some rest. Now back in action, his latest strategies for handling wipeouts and his harrowing experience underscore the paramount importance of safety. As 2024 unfolds, fans eagerly anticipate witnessing more of Lenny’s legendary feats.

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