Mentally, Emotionally and Physically, Surfing Legend Laird Hamilton Completely Leaned Into a Lifestyle on the Edge, as Revealed in 2018
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Living on the edge or surfing seems like synonyms for each other. While surfing is well-known to give an adrenaline rush, it also causes fatal accidents. Likewise, the big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton also has faced some dangerous instances in his sporting career of surfing.
Hamilton is well-regarded for performing some exceptional yet dangerous prompts while surfing. However, a few years back, Laird Hamilton appeared in an interview where he talked about his near-death experiences while performing those stunts.
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Laird Hamilton and his rich history of close encounters with death
In 2018, in an interview with Graham Bensinger, the host asked Hamilton about his closest call to death. On this, Laird replied, “I have a lot of chances to die for sure”. He elaborated further by recalling the various life-threatening instances. “I’ve been lost at sea where I thought that was it”, he added.
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He also had a near-fatal accident when he was surfing in Russia. However, the deadly saga does not end here. Based on the talk, Laird also got stuck under the waterfall once.
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The 58-year-old surfer also talked about his worst surfing experience. Adding details to the horrific experience, Hamilton stated, “I’ve had one foiling where I got pushed down, and I was still connected to the board, and I pushed into the black, you know, and was at the bottom of the ocean connected to this sea anchor. And you pushed into the black, yeah like it just goes black. He added, “I got hit so hard that it drove me through the water that it split my lips”.
Hamilton’s take on life-threatening encounters
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In one of the series of the same interview, Hamilton revealed that most of his friends and family considered him bipolar or under the effect of Asperger’s. On this, He joked, “whatever I have its working“. As per his revelations, he also considers himself a terrier. He further explained his drive to go after something he really wants. Explaining this, he said, “that’s one of the things that allowed me to do what I am able to do”.
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Although Hamilton may have encountered some life-altering experiences, he has a positive take when it comes to his beloved sport of surfing.
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Edited by:
Simar Singh Wadhwa